![]() When removed the shape of the head's ports will transfer to the manifold. It is a colored greasy substance you smear around the intake ports on the head. ![]() This is NOT the thin blue layout fluid like "Dykem". So in the future when you gain more experience and skill using one, you can use the same tool for burrs.Īs for matching the shape of the runners to the shape of the head ports, look into what's referred to as "engineers transfer blue" (although it also comes in yellow as "gear marker"). The nice thing about a 1/4" collet tool like these is it's the same tool for use with a carbide burr. If you don't have a compressor (although you should if you intend to do much shop work), the same styles are also available in electric power. Here is one example of what I'm referring to for the drums: They are MUCH easier to control, won't create huge damage if you screw up a little, very effective at shaping things uniformly (burrs tend to 'dig in'), won't clog up like burrs do on aluminum, and are very inexpensive (carbide burrs are NOT). So you can mix and match them to suit whatever specific changes you need to make to the runners. The drums come in a large variety of diameters, lengths, and grits. Therefore I agree with and suggest not using a carbide burr and just use sanding/grinding drums on a high speed tool (either air or electric driven). And even more especially when attempting to keep a nice concentric "round" shape in the runners. In the beginning it can be very easy to screw things up when using a carbide burr - especially if you have also never used a carbide burr before. It also sounds like you have not done porting work before. So mostly making a larger diameter "round" shape. simple conversions typically flow around 225-230 cfm, even with a competition valve job.Click to expand.As I understand you are talking about opening up the round runner passages in the intake manifold to match the ported head ports. so you can wrap $160 up right there.ĭon't bother with the big valves, since your right, on a 430 bore you can't unshroud the valves enough to make good use of them, and doing a STG conversion and a full port on any iron head, in light of the offerings out there for Aluminum stuff now, just makes no financial sense anymore.Īnd a STG valve conversion, without a full port, does little more than let you tell your buddys it has STG 1 valves in it. (not including shipping, which is typcially $40 a head, X 2, and then here and back). casting numbers (last three) 963,965 and one other number that escapes the top of my head at the moment, they are 5% bigger than the later 455 heads to begin with.Ĭracking on the surface under the valve cover, between the spring pads is an issue with that casting, but most can be saved.Įven with the stock valves, they will go in the 250/190 cfm range, or maybe a touch more.Ī $700 deal. If you have the big port version of this head. I guess that's kind of a good thing, when I first got interested in Buicks in the late 70's and early 80's everyone told me Buick engines were only good as boat anchors, after which time my '69 430-4 Electra usually would beat their 440 RoadRunner or 350 Corvette or 302 Mustang or whatever.įor what you guys are doing, I would suggest a simple Street-strip port with some combustion chamber work. There are articles on the internet on porting Buick heads at home the right way but I have been reading so many web sites lately I can't remember where. ![]() Just gasket matching the ports of your heads and intake should make a big difference that a novice should be able to perform without screwing up too much. heads weighs less than a small block chevy with iron heads! Then again porting the heads myself would be almost free. If I take my heads to a shop and have them ported it will cost almost as much as a brand new set of aluminum heads that will not only outflow what I could do myself, but there is the advantage that aluminum allows higher compression per octane of gas, and of coarse it would lighten the front end up more than 50lbs. This is why the 69 400 stg 1 had the exact same head as a 69 Electra. There isn't enough room for the incoming air/fuel mixture to go around the valves into the chamber without smacking the cylinder walls. The 430 heads have better compression than '71-'76 455 heads but the 430 bore diameter is just small enough to make using the stage 1 valves useless. I'm currently talking myself into porting my '68 430 heads for use on my 455 block.
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